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Vienna: The Texas State Bird
What is it that you see all over the Vienna skyline? That’s right, the Texas State Bird – The Construction Crane. As near as I can tell, Vienna is in the middle of “boom” economy. All that talk we hear about how bad the European economy was certainly not seen at any time during my visit. Road construction, buildings of all types and all of the employment agencies are all quite busy. The mall, yes, the mall was jam-packed until closing every single day. This is not economics data, its just a guy observing facts on the ground. I didn’t see any post apocalypse euro-detroit here. I saw a busy port city, much like Houston if Houston was on a river rather than the coast.
Vienna is the gateway to the east. And while I didn’t make it any further than the border with Hungary during my visit; its my opinion that the east must be doing very well indeed for this much trade to have rubbed off on Vienna. There very well may be unemployed in Austria, but I didn’t see any evidence of a poor economic situation in this city at any time during the week. The cars were all new, as were the motorcycles, everyone has a cellphone and the stores are all busy.
Interestingly, I saw only one policeman the entire visit. And I saw only one beggar on the subway. I did see graffiti, lots of it. And yet, most of it came down just as fast.
As we all know, Vienna is where the Turks were stopped in their invasion of Europe and the Western world. And yet, 500 years later, what is the big question for the Viennese and for Austria? Whether or not the Turks should be in the EU. The Austrians have an election coming in October where the key issue separating the political parties is that very thing.
Talk about holding a grudge. Its been 500 years folks, let it go for cryin’ out loud …
Of course it really doesn’t have anything to do with a war fought over 500 years ago nor is it as racially based, as you would assume. It’s really all about trade. Right now, Austria enjoys the benefits of being the gateway to the eastern world. All sorts of goods and services, both legal and illegal are going through Austria via the Danube and the greatly increased road traffic that has occurred since the end of the cold war. If Turkey becomes part of the EU, the trade the Austrians are currently enjoying with the east will come to an end, at least that part of it that generates tax revenue. The illegal trade in people, goods and drugs will always continue.
And what about immigration? Well, its certainly here, both legal and illegal. One thing I did notice during my experiences this week in Austria is that in jobs that in the US are typically handled by immigrants, like low skilled food service, are largely held by teenage kids, something that used to be quite common in the states at one time. Where I expected to find lots of non-german speaking people, I found instead, high school and college aged kids.
There is also a high amount of Islamic people living in and around Vienna; in fact the UN is sitting right in the middle of the Viennese Islamic neighborhoods. Coincidence? Maybe, but it struck me as funny, but maybe I’m the only one. If there is an “Islamic issue” its one involving the immigration of sub Saharan Islamic peoples into the city.
Did I see any anti-US sentiment while I was here? No, not at all. In fact, one of my hobbies is to read graffiti for political comment, and frankly I didn’t see a single instance of anti-war, anti-US reaction anywhere including the communist neighborhoods near the Prater that I went through while walking around the city. While I tried to look as innocuous as I could, I was occasionally spotted as an American but I was never asked if I thought “Bush is an idiot” or “ Do you think the war is wrong”? However, since I am a Californian, I was asked several times to comment on Arnold Schwarzeneggers performance as Governor, to which I gave a polite “thumbs up” for those who felt they needed to know how he was doing. I then tried to explain that as Governor he is not Prime Minister and that as the leader of the executive branch of government, he has a very difficult task when he has so many people working against him. To this, they just respond with a shrug of the shoulders. Europeans as a rule; genuinely do not understand our concept of limited government.
Its not that they don’t care about us or don’t notice who we are, its just that this little town of a million people way out on the Danube their concerns are more about the state of the world just across their border in the Slovakian countries. They really don’t seem too worried about "us yanks" one way or the other.
This is not to say that CNN International and the German News Deutche Welle doesn’t start and end every commercial break with something like “ Egyptian women want to know about their loved ones being kept in seclusion in Guantanamo against international law and the latest on abu ghraib, next on CNN”. I believe that if you were to watch CNN International for three days straight, I cant see how you could not want to commit suicide. It’s not that the news here is primarily anti-US, its that its anti-life in general. There is no good news to be found about anything – ever. It’s all disaster - all the time! It’s enough to make you seek therapy if you watch it long enough.
Today’s big news on DW is the fires in Southern California. It now seems that the foreign news are getting a great deal joy by reporting American disasters as if they portend the end of the American empire. It’s no longer just a forest fire or a hurricane, its proof at last of the collapse of America.
The only current news I was asked about by the Austrians was “Bush’s number two man being indicted for conspiracy”. I hadn’t heard the news, so I thought “Cheney?”. Nein! They said, “Tom Delay”! I thought to myself “when did he get a promotion”? Truth be told, the District Attorney in any city can indict whomever they want for whatever reason (see: New Orleans District Attorney Jim Garrison in Wikipedia under “trumped up charges with no factual basis in the law that results in lots of camera time for a DA in search of a better gig”.). Its been said that they “can indict a ham sandwich if they want to”. My only word of advice for Mr. Earle is the old saying the mafia has about: “if you set out to kill the king, you better be sure to get him, because if you miss, your life wont be worth squat”. Mr. Delay is not the “throw in the towel” type and he’s likely to make sure that everyone in the Earle camp including Mr. Earle himself gets a complete hammering before this is over. I sure hope the camera time is worth the wrath that Mr. Delay is going to throw at him.
The only thing I can say to Mr. Delay is this: Karma Buddy, what goes around comes around. You didn’t really think they would let you destroy their business and not get upset about it did you? So you can’t really be surprised that this happened.
Anyway, Vienna was a blast. The food at all levels was always excellent; Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner. The people were always nice even when my German wasn’t up to the task. I completely enjoyed the trip and I’m looking forward to retuning to the land where the formula for creating “ice cubes” is know to almost every restaurateur.
Posted @ September 30, 2005 01:29 PM | Current Affairs
The thought about whacking Mr. Big may have some currency in the mafia, but is better known in Shakespeare, tho I can't tell you exactly where. The most familiar line is, "If you set out to kill the king, kill the king." Somewhere else, perhaps in MacBeth, he says "If it is to be done, tis well it were done quickly."
Don't miss Graz, and the Arnold S. stadium... and the armory with over 1,000 sets of armor still waiting for local minutemen to meet the muslims. And the steps to the city clocktower built by Russian POWs in WW II.
I found it hard to believe how Austria maintains such a high standard of living, when one can drop across the border to Slovenia, etc., and find the usual legions of underemployed and pathetic wages. Northern Italy, too, is much more prosperous today than most Americans would believe. It is hard to believe, when you are old enough to remember 1945, how the vanquished have gotten so far back on top again. Arbeitung, I guess, plus shrewd capital management and secure private property.
Posted by: exguru
at October 1, 2005 07:20 AM
Funny, I've been living in Vienna for quite a few years now, but I haven't seen any "communist neighbourhoods" or "Islamic neighbourhoods" ;-)
There may be a mosque near the UN buildings, but the area isn't particularly Islamic at all. And while Vienna has been traditionally socialist for a long time, communism has never enjoyed significant popularity here. Even less so after the experience of post-WWII occupation. Vienna, in general, doesn't have "ethnic neighbourhoods" in the American sense.
Your theory as regards Austria's opposition to Turkey's EU membership doesn't hold water, I think. Austria's major trade partners are its immediate neighbours and recently the Balkans. Turkey wouldn't change anything about that. If there is an economic reason for Austrians' opposition to Turkey membership, it's because Austria is one of the few "net payers" of the EU, and people aren't excited about seeing their tax euros flowing into Asia minor.
And those elections coming up this month: they're only city council elections in Vienna, nothing nationwide. Except for the right-wing freedom party's desparate attempts to survive by playing the old xenophobia spiel, Turkey is simply a non-issue in those elections.
Anyway, interesting post.
Posted by: Kris
at October 3, 2005 10:47 AM
The hotel we stayed at was in the donauzentrum district just across the river from Vienna. When we decided to go into Vienna proper, we had to pass through the islamic center, on the other side of it is where we found the UN buildings. On the way back, we took the U-bahn which runs directly through UN City, and the entire train that rode on was full of islamic women in the traditional dress. And where did they depart? thats right, UN City which also happens to be the closes stsop to the Islamic center, at least what we thought was the islmaic center.
So, thats where the observation came from. That and the big sign on Lasalle street that said " Islamic District".
As far as the election goes, the biggest surprise for me was how fast the advertising went up. It seemed like it wasnt there on the first day we arrived and their it was suddenly there the next and its was overwheming - everywhere and all at once. We were mobbed by campaign workers from various parties on several street corners on one trip to the city on friday.
I hadnt considered the tax implications of Turkey being in the EU and the reason I did that is that the rest of the EU seems to be ok with Turkey in the EU, but Greece and Austria have expressed an opinion that is outside of the bonds of the rest of the EU members. I looked at the geography and viennas natural place as a central trade "port" and drew my own conclusions. Im prepared to be wrong with that conclusion.
That all being said, I completely enjoyed my time in Vienna and you are very luck indeed to live in such a fine place.
Posted by: varifrank
at October 3, 2005 01:00 PM
Glad you enjoyed your time in Vienna. I've been to the US three times now, but I've never made it to the West. People tell me that the climate in California would match my taste -- is it true it's like summertime Scandinavia, only all the year? By the way, let me assure you that Arnold Schwarzenegger's German pronunciation is even weirder than his English.
Yes, the "Islamic centre" is somewhat close the the UN buildings. I used to commute to that area (Lasallestraße) on a daily basis until recently, but I certainly don't remember a sign that said "Islamic district" -- the area around the UN buildings is quite popular with young and affluent people who are most certainly not interested in any religion, let alone Islam. It probably depends on the weekday and time of day how you perceive a place -- I found your comment that Vienna is "surrounded by refineries" (there's exactly one refinery around Vienna, and it's on the way between the airport and the city) very amusing until I realised that my own perception of visited cities is just as skewed by coincidence of when and where I arrived and stayed in a city. I guess it's impossible to really get the feel of a place unless you've been there for at least a few months.
Skepticism towards Turkey's membership in the EU is actually quite wide-spread in Europe, not just Austria and Greece. The issue is far more complex than it may seem from the outside -- for instance, Austria's government has been using the Turkey issue to press its interest in getting Croatia's negotiations going, and also to boost its own approval ratings, which have been going down rapidly.
Posted by: Kris
at October 3, 2005 02:20 PM
It is absolutely the case that when you are travelling on business, you get a very narrow view of the world. In business travel it doesnt matter where you go you see the same three things, the airport, the car rental agency and the hotel. Dont mistake my observations as anything other than one guy who while travelling for business managed to get out of the hotel for a few afternoons and jotted down a few notes while he walked around the city.
I've always followed the idea that you should "be a traveller and not a tourist", so I went through great pains to avoid the usual suspects while visitng vienna. For example, rather than eat at the hotel sacher like everyone else, I ate the at the mexican restaurant on the hauptalle next to the Prater. Viennese mexican food? Well, it wasnt bad, but it wasnt mexican either, which is ok as most of what people know to be mexican food can rarely be found in mexico anyway.
The number refineries really surprises me as I asked the locals specifically about that. In my defense, Id like to say its a really BIG refinery but the "number of refieries" came from people I talked to while I was there. Boy, if you cant trust the locals with information, who can you trust.
I should have researched it further but my main point was that you dont think "refinery" when you think "Vienna", but there it was - plain as day. That, and the amount of construction that was going on was amoung the biggest surprises that I found while I was there. Finding a refinery in Vienna was like finding a 1st class winery in Salt Lake City, it may very well exist, its just not something you expect at first glance to find.
As far as "communist neighborhoods", I have no real way to tell which is which or one from the other. However, I like to read grafitti and when I read grafitti I find certain trends, for example, the neighborhood between the Prater and the river, most of the light poles and walls I found a number of "vote communist" stickers. I didnt see then anywhere else in the city, so I assumed that this neighborhood could be a place in which a higher than usual number of voters could be found who might support the communist party.
Current weather here in northnern california is 72 degrees in the daytime, 55 in the evening, with very little if any rain expeceted for the next three weeks. After that, we enter a period of time we like to call " mongolian death fog" season where the central valley is overcome with a deep thick fog which will cover most of the valley for months at a time. "Mongolian Death fog" is fog that is so thick that you could cut it and use it as a cheap building material.
The good news is that its our only severe weather condition to speak of and it only lasts for a few weeks.
Posted by: varifrank
at October 3, 2005 04:24 PM



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