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Back From Beyond

Donner Party Memorial, May 29th 2006.
On October 28th, 1846 A party of emigrants who had spent the summer crossing the Great Basin( a very dry high alpine desert), failed to cross the Sierra Mountain range before the onset of the annual snows.
This memorial sits off the side of Interstate highway 80 and marks the campsites where a large part of the emigrants camped for the winter. The base of the memorial marks the height of the snow that winter, the tourists below give a sense of scale of the overall size of the memorial. The Encampment at Donner Lake lasted from October 1946 until April 1847.
Forty-two members of the Donner Party perished over the winter, 47 survived. The Donners came to California before it became fashionable and the trail was far from well established. The 49'ers of the Gold Rush were still two years off. An ill-advised shortcut given by a man who had never actually seen the trail, resulted in the loss of nearly 30 days in the crossing. The experience of the Donner Party serves as a warning to all who might take such shortcuts in life.
One member of the party, Louis Keseberg was discovered with the half eaten corpses of his fellow travellers at his tent when the relief party arrived in April. During the trip, he is also thought to have taken part in the abandonment of one of the other travellers in the desert. He was the last survivor of the encampment to arrive at Sutters Fort. When you start to complain about the habits of your seatmates on Southwest Airlines, just be glad your not sharing an exit row with Louis Keseberg.
This site also marked the completion point of my epic motorcycle trip this weekend over the Sierras. Unlike the weather found by the Donner Party, the weather was great but it was a little colder in places than I had anticipated including a bit of early summer snow. At one point I was caught at the pass in a small localized snowstorm with about 100 other motorcyclists and it was quite a scene. We looked like the set of a "Mad Max" movie as we took over the small diner in Foresthill California and waited for the storm to pass.
To my knowledge, no cannibalism is known to have occured during my short stay.
I have always called the Donner Memorial the "No Whining" Memorial because no matter how bad you think your situation is, no matter how bleak your day or your current life circumstances, you can be certain that its better than the situation the Donner Party faced in the winter of 1846. Today, the area of the Donner encampment is surrounded by multi-million dollar vacation homes, fully stocked grocery stores and a six lane freeway.
Life is good.
( More info on the Donner Party can be found here.)
Posted @ May 30, 2006 03:28 PM | Current Affairs
All the Donner party had to do was to cross one more hill of about 1000 feet elevation differential (the hill on which Boreal Ridge ski resort is presently located), and they would have found the headwaters of the Yuba River, and a path down to the valley.
Such is the lot of trailblazers.
I wonder of the story of the Donner Party has significance in today's political climate, about blazing trails and the consequences of quitting even in the face of seemingly insurmountable odds.
That back road to Donner looks righteous - didn't know it existed. Have you ever ridden old US-40 over the hill?
Posted by: JD at May 30, 2006 08:20 PM
Highway 40 is the back road. You can take it all the way down through the little town of donner lake and up the sheer granite cliffs that lock the valley up to the west and all the way down to cisco grove where the road is mostly covered by Highway 80. From Donner eastward, the best thing to do is to go up Highway 89 to Henness pass road. From there you can connect to Dog Valley Road which will take you over into Nevada and into Verdi. That approximates the path of the '46 emigrant trail, in fact there are several markers along that path to point out the route, and there are still some visible wagon "ruts" in that area. Its passable by car, and doesnt require any special equipment (in summer of course!). One of my other adventures with this route in the past involved taking a mountain bike over this route to get from Nevada to Sacramento by Bicycle. It works, but it was a lot of work. To get to Nevada City by bike, you have to avoid Highway 80, so theres a bit of backtrack along Jackson Meadows lake to the north of Donner, which leaves you at lake spaulding and highway 20, which is the back route into Nevada City. Once you make it to nevada city, you can go down highway 49 or Highway 20 to get into the valley.
Following the emigrant route makes you very aware of things that we dont think of in the modern age, like the grade of the road. Animal power limits you as to what you can climb and under what conditions. If you follow the route I described, the first things you notice is that despite climbing out of the mountains, its actually fairly flat, which is the whole idea. In the age of machinery, we dont think anything at all of a hill or two. The Emigrants didnt look at it that way. For the Donners, exhausted after the hell of crossing the Nevada desert, they were in no shape to cross the ridgeline that is behind the lake, which is the actual path for their 1846 trail, the area that highway 80 now covered didnt come into use until 1960. The lake trail also requires the use of "rollers" or tree trunks with pulleys to keep the wagons together on the very narrow pathway. So if you take a group of very tired and exhausted people, put at the end of their physical endurance and dump 4 feet of snow on them at the bottom of the valley and block the pass, you get a very different decision tree than what you and I would take. The longer they waited, the less likely it was that they could get out. They probably could have walked out had they been thinking that a disaster was coming, but like most emergencies, they didnt think it was really that bad until it was too late to change anything. Their situation was so bad they could not even manage the smaller effort to go backwards to Truckee Meadows (Modern Reno) .
Remember, these were older men, Women and Children who had been walking every day since April from Missouri. You stand at the bottom of Donner and look up at that granite wall today and it just sucks the life out of you, you just cant imagine what it must've been like for them.
Remember that some did try to walk out in January, and several died in the effort and only a few survived naked and starving to make it into Johnson Ranch ( near modern day Beale AFB).
Posted by: Frank Martin at May 30, 2006 09:03 PM
Seems like more than a few situations where indecisive, emotionally spent people in influential roles who spend time trying to hold on to what they have by forging consensus wind up getting eaten by those a bit more focused on themselves. Pretty good analogy for many of the current issues wouldn't you say?
Almost always best to slog on by trying to overcome the hurdles in front of you or die trying.
Pretty good Memorial Day reminder and the bike ride sounded good as well.
Now its off to make the daily long pi.... err, bread.
Posted by: Brian at June 1, 2006 06:42 AM



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